Fig. 1. The black truffle Tuber melanosporum. Source.
Ah, truffles! They are the gourmet’s celebration, the cook’s inspiration, the common man’s anticipation. And they demand quite a price, which at last count hovered around $2,000 a pound for Italian white truffles, the French black truffles being cheaper, but still not within the reach of most people. And their production is decreasing. So it befalls few mortals to dine on these delicacies. But there is hope. As many of you know, truffle oil is used quite widely in restaurants. So, where does truffle oil come from? Did it ever see a truffle? Before going there, let’s agree that the price is right. You can find all sorts of truffle oil on the Internet for as little as $5 per ounce. It even comes in a kosher variety.
Alas, truffle oil has not been within smelling distance of a real truffle but is simply some sort of regular vegetable oil, often olive oil, that has been doctored by the addition of the ether, 2,4 dithiapentane. This is one of the main odor-producing compounds in truffles and, to a debatable approximation, it emulates the real aroma. Many expert food connoisseurs disagree and maintain that it doesn’t resemble the real thing. Also, some are bothered by the artificial nature of this concoction. In defense of truffle oil, the flavor it imparts to food is quite impressive. It does remind me of the taste of the few truffles I have been lucky enough to eat—metallic, pungent, earthy, and very distinctive. It may not be the real thing but it does contribute a nice bite to otherwise uninspired dishes. I, for one, am on the side of the folks who enjoy it. The only allowance needed is to agree that even an imitation may taste good.